Thailand - January 2002
ThailandThailand is a tapestry as colorful and diverse as the silk for which the country is most famous. It is a combination of East and West, past and present. Thailand “Land of the Free” – is a country where tradition and innovation happily co-exist.

Bangkok

Bangkok is located 25 miles upstream from the Gulf of Thailand, along the banks of the Chao Phraya River. It is a flat, sprawling, apparently haphazard city. Though there is a logic to the layout of the city, I failed to discover it. With map in hand, blessed with a great sense of direction, and the assistance of the gracious Thai people, I never found myself lost.

Bangkok has no central downtown, instead it is composed of several major districts, each with it’s own unique personality. Thais call their city “Krung Thep”, which translates to “City of Angles”. Founded in 1782 by King Rama, it was built on a small riverside trading post established by early Chinese settlers, and called Ban Kok “Village of Olives”, thus the name Bangkok was born. Today around seven million people inhabit the 600 square miles of the Bangkok metropolis.

To the Photo GalleryAlong the Chao Phraya River “River of Kings”, you will find old temples, piers, private dwellings, restaurants and hotels all sharing the same space along the river. Wat Arun is a temple on the river, decorated with figures of ancient Chinese soldiers and animals, seashells, and traditional chinaware. An awesome sight. The best place to view the river activity is from the terrace of the Oriental Bangkok Hotel, rated as one of the finest hotel in the world for the past five years by Travel & Leisure Magazine. I spent an evening there with a friend from the US, Jeremy, and his two Thai friends, Peter, a Col. in the Royal Thai Army, and Victor, a fashionable retailer. It seems the Thai people are devout Buddhist, love their royal family, and have the utmost respect for their armed forces, which is why Peter can get preferred prices on goods, best tables in restaurants, and parks anywhere he chooses. Peter is a jazz freak, so I promised to send him a copy of JAM Magazine (official publication of the Kansas City Jazz Ambassadors), and a Karrin Allyson CD. Victor, the shop owner is a delight also. His mother is Chinese, father Thai. He speaks eight languages, including Cantonese and Mandarin Chinese. What an interesting person! The three of us developed a lasting friendship, and promised to keep in touch by email.

Tuk-Tuk Branching off the river are klongs (canal), which are waterways running through the city. They serve as a major means of transportation, since the city is a parking lot with cars, taxis, and “Tuk-Tuks (a three-wheel vehicle). I loved the Tuk-Tuk. They are fast, weaving in and out of the never ending traffic, but a cool way to travel if you are brave. My first class hotel, Amari Atrium, sat on the banks of a klong, where I was able to watch the commuters from my huge corner room windows with views to the east and south overlooking the city.

FOOD – Eating is a major pastime in Thailand, and they take their food seriously. They eat constantly. One of the worlds true gourmet centers, the city is lined with street vendors cooking and selling anything from roast chicken to sausages to noodle soup. Fresh fruits and vegetables abound. The food is wonderful.

PEOPLE – Though everything was exotic and wonderful, my greatest pleasure was getting to know the Thai people. They always smile. Almost all are Buddhist, a few Hindu. Buddha teaches that everything goes around, and what you give, is what you will receive. Even in the heat, crowds, and never ending traffic jams, Thais never lack composure. You hear no honking horns, no swearing, see no waving fists, as Thais believe to lose ones temper is the height of poor manners. Americans could learn a lot from these people.

I will return to this awe-inspiring city and it’s gracious people.

Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is Thailand’s cultural and spiritual home. This walled and moated city boasts over 300 Thai Buddhist temples spread over the valley surrounded by lush mountains. All Thai young men are urged to join the Buddhist monkhood. They can stay as little as three days, or forever.

To the Photo GalleryDoi Suthep is an awesome heavily guilded temple atop a mountain. Rumor has it that monks making the pilgrimage up the mountain looking to build their temple were following their white elephant. They decided wherever the elephant decided to lie down is where the temple would sit. The white elephant is buried in the temple. The mountain was named for a hermit sage who lived and meditated there for eons. The temple was constructed in 1383 to enshrine a small piece of Buddha’s skull. A 300-step staircase leads to the top of the temple, or one can take the tram (I did). The view of the city below is lovely, though there was a bit of fog the day I was there.

I visited an Orchid/Butterfly Farm. The flowers were gorgeous. I had no idea orchids came in so many different shapes and colors. Thailand is a huge exporter of these flowers. Thailand also exports precious and semi-precious stones. Many are mined there, most others are sent there to be cut. I visited a jade factory where I saw them cut , polish and seal the stones. I ended up purchasing a heart shaped amethyst, which I left to have Victor set in 18 K gold. He will ship to me when ready. I bought a ring from him, also set in 18K for $150, which if bought in US would easily sell for $500.

Next was a visit to the Mountain Tribe. Long ago they came to Thailand to escape Chinese persecution. They migrated to the mountains to grow opium, as they did in China. The Thai government said “NO!”, and provided them with training needed to farm and produce handicrafts. The government said if they would no longer grow opium, the government would build them a road. A trip that used to take three days now takes only a half hour. The tribe agreed, and they now flourish. I was able to purchase six bags of Saffron from them for only 250 Baht, which is about $5.55. That day the rate of exchange was 43 B to $1. I also purchased a wall hanging. Though Tibet in design, it’s lovely.

To the Photo GalleryThe next day was a visit to the Elephant Camp. We watched them bathe in the jungle stream, then put on a delightful show. They perform for three hours, then are set free to roam the jungle, but always returning at feeding time. My tour guide, Tong shared with me some amazing stories told to her by the camp owner.

Dinner one evening consisted of yummy Thai food combined with a show of Thai dancers. Though lovely, there were way too many tourists for me. You see, my whole trip consisted of a driver, a tour guide, and myself. I roamed with the locals, avoiding tourists at all costs.

The Mae Sa Waterfall, was a jungle paradise. Beautiful streams, flowers and dense foliage surrounded this impressive waterfall. Could have stayed there forever.

My hotel, the Westin Chiang Mai, is one of the newest and most lavish in the city. My room, including entry and bath, was huge, approx. 1000 sq. feet. The public rooms were lovely also, decorated tastefully.

My tour guide Tong has a pottery business on the side. We had long talks covering religion, politics, and people in general. We believe very much the same. She would like me to return, and stay with her family. I told her I would. We exchanged email addresses and promised to keep in touch.

I was sad to leave the country and the people, but enriched and enlightened by the experience, I will return.


To the Photo Gallery


Last modified 26 January 2002
© Sue Mallen 2002


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